Tuesday, July 04, 2006


I was dizzy with memories when I took my first steps in Paris: the streets, the overwhelming memories, the love, the tears. But I was so happy, couldnt wipe the smile off my face. It mirrored Jeanne Moreau's magnificent smile from Ascenseur pour l'echafaud that was plastered on the Hotel de Ville for the Paris Au Cinema exhibition, which I luckily saw before it finished that evening.

And then, my first Paris culinary experience: dinner at L'os a moelle, with N. I was so excited at going here, and my hopes of a fantastic meal were surpassed. A 6 course degustation for 38E, and we took the waiter's recommendation of swapping halfway through each dish so we could taste it all. In brief: an amuse-bouche of sliced zucchini and frothed cream; cool soups of tomatoes with croutons and jamon/cream of mushroom with pine nuts; quail with crispy skin/seared fois gras, one of the most delicious things Ive ever eaten, oh...; fish with roast potatoes/the other with two pieces of marrowbone on the top - like pearls in the mouth; lamb/beef; slice of delicate blue cheese with balsamic radicchio; and dessert, which we kept to ourselves, mine was quenelle of chocolate. Along with a kir and a gorgeous bottle of red, it was a fantastic meal. The chef came out to each table afterwards and asked how we liked the meal. I was gushing!

Sunday was a trip to the Musee Nissim de Camondo. Such an interesting, beautiful place, like the Frick in NY. Moise de Camondo was one of the finest collectors of 18th century art, furniture and objects, and everything in the house is prerserved as he wished. And I love seeing bedrooms and kitchens from olden days. His son, Nissim, was killed in WW1, and his daughter and her family were killed in Aushwitz, the end to the de Camondos. Hardly anyone knows about this beautiful place, which is kind of nice, its a real treasure.

Last night I had a falafel at the famous L'as du falafel, on rue de Rosiers, the Jewish hub. It really was like little-somewhere-in-Israel - dusty, crazy, bustling. Kippahs, star of Davids, religious boys and men in black. And even though I didnt feel like falafel - I had a craving for my favourite Asian traiteur, but I joined the queue because I knew Id kick myself if I didnt make it - it was absolutely delicious. Light, more-ishly crunchy on the outside falafel, cabbage, grilled eggplant, hummous, and only 4E. Washed down with their incredible citronnade (I went back for another today), Im very glad I made it.

Theres been lots of flaneurie, the best past-time in Paris. As much as there are so many interesting exhibits at the moment, movies too, I cant stop myself from walking around and seeing new and old streets, shops, cafes, people.


Blogger eurobrat said...

Oh my god. I can't even comment- I've been transported to Paris...

Your travel journal is exquisite.

Merci Beaucoup!

11:51 am  

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